I would like to think that was true except that experience proves that this is rarely the case, therefore the club would appreciate your reading the following guidelines. This will help ensure that what goes up, will come down safely in one piece ,ensuring your day is one you will want to remember rather than one you would like to forget.
(a) Models should be built to a standard such that they will not fail under normal circumstances, giving particular attention to control surfaces and connections.
(b) Models should be thoroughly checked prior to each flying session and after any abnormally hard landing.
(c) It is recommended that rounded spinners or safety propeller nuts of the domed type are fitted to internal combustion and electric powered models and that gliders and pusher powered aircraft noses should also be rounded (no needle noses).
(d) Care should be taken by the operator that propellers are of suitable size and construction for their engine or motor's operating speed. All propellers should be carefully balanced. Cheap and efficient propeller balancers are available from you local model shop and you should ask an experienced modeller for help if you are unsure how to use them.
(e) On internal combustion engines and electric motors, damaged propellers must not be used. Inspect your propellers regularly and replace any that are not in good condition
(f) On internal combustion engines and electric motors, metal propellers must not be used.
(g) The use of locking prop nuts is recommended, especially for users of 4-stroke engines. A backfire or ‘kick’ can loosen a prop nut and locking nuts will prevent the propeller flying off.
(h) Heavy ballast, or any other heavy part, subject to jettisoning in flight is prohibited. Jettisonable ballast must be of a safe nature e.g. water.
(i) All R/C models are subject to in-flight vibration, landing knocks, transport damage etc. Be sure that receivers and batteries are well protected, servos are fixed securely, control linkages (pushrods, snakes, closed loop etc.) are robust enough for their purpose, are properly supported where necessary and are as slop free as possible and that all control surface hinges and horns are fitted correctly. Pushrod clevises should fit control horns cleanly with no sideways strain and they should be fitted with a plastic or silicon tube ‘keeper’ as a secondary closure.
(j) When starting an engine always make sure that the model is restrained and cannot move forward.
(k) Never put yourself in a position where your face is in line with a turning propeller. A broken propeller will fly out and forward so make all engine adjustments from the rear if possible. A broken propeller will also be a danger to anyone standing nearby so take care that no-one is in line with it when starting your engine.
(a) ARTFs are very popular and usually offer very good value for money but you should be aware that some airframes you may buy could have manufacturing or design defects. Close scrutiny of even a pre-covered airframe may pay big dividends if you can prevent a future failure.
(b) All visible glue joints within the fuselage should be checked, especially the engine bulkhead, fuselage bulkheads, wing mounting plates or wing dowels, undercarriage mountings and servo mountings. If you have any concerns then the reinforcement of many of these joints using scrap balsa stripwood will significantly increase the strength and durability of the airframe for very little weight increase.
(c) Take particular care when gluing wing panels together. Follow the manufacturers instructions and when adding such things as dihedral braces make sure that the whole joint is wetted out by the glue.
(d) Check pre-fitted pushrods, snakes and clevises for suitability. Most will be fine but some have been seen that were inadequate for the job expected of them, either being to thin or too weak. The rule of thumb should be ‘if I was fitting this, would I fit this’.
(e) Always check flying surfaces for warps - don’t assume that a wing will be straight because it was built for you. Minor warps can sometimes be removed by gently heating the covering, twisting the surface in opposition to the warp and holding until cool. Major warps are a reason for returning to where you bought the model.
(f) The ONLY acceptable (and beneficial) warp on an R/C model is matched wash-out. That is, looking from the rear the trailing edge at each wingtip is twisted upwards a little compared to the root of the wing. If this is present then it MUST be even on both wings or it’s just another warp.
(g) On i/c powered models, have a good look at the fuel proofing around the engine and fuel tank bay. If you are looking towards something more than a throw away airframe then an extra coat of fuel proofer in and around the nose may be worth while.
(h) Especially on ARTF models ensure that hinged surfaces i.e. rudders ,ailerons ,elevators and flaps are securely fitted and not just assembled for transit ,if in any doubt give them a firm pull or ask an instructor to double check them for you.
(1) After obtaining frequency clearance, switch transmitter ON then receiver ON. Check that all controls operate freely and in the correct sense. Check that all control surfaces are in their correct positions with the transmitter trims at neutral.
(2) Look for any minor radio malfunctions such as slow or ‘jittery’ servos, glitches etc. If in doubt, DO NOT FLY.
(3) After starting the engine and allowing it to warm up, check that the pick-up from idle to full power is satisfactory. Hold the model with its nose pointing upwards at a steep climbing angle for ten or fifteen seconds and check engine operation at full power. If the engine falters or cuts it is usually set too lean and must be re-tuned. Repeat the test until the engine runs correctly in the nose-up attitude.
(4) With the aircraft held securely on the ground, open up again to full power and re-check all flying controls again.
(5) DOUBLE CHECK that all transmitter trims, rate switches, mixers etc. are in their correct positions and that the transmitter meter is ‘in the green’. Be S.M.A.R.T. with your transmitter.
S...switch on M...meter in the green A...aerial secure and extended R...rate switches all in correct positions T...trims all in correct positions
(1) Receiver OFF then transmitter OFF.
(2) Clear the frequency control system.
(3) Clean the aircraft down.
(4) Check propeller, airframe, undercarriage, wing fixing etc. for security of fastening and for possible flight or landing damage.
The HMAC have some excellent flying instructors, and any member will be glad to give advice and help to ensure that you achieve your “ wings “ or “A” licence if you prefer . Safe and responsible flying from our members is the one of the primary objectives of our club.
